Sygis Sydneys // Autumn in Sydney

P2rast kaht v2ga kuuma ja p2ikeselist p2eva Brisbane'is s6itsime me 8ise rongiga Sydneysse. Rongis oli t2nu ekstreemsele kliimaseadmele jube jahe (mis on muuseas k6ikides seni kylastatud kuumades riikides kahjuks normiks, v2hemalt juhtudel kus selleks piisavalt raha leidub), seega ootasime pikisilmi, et saaks l6puks rongist v2lja sooja 6hku astuda. Suur oli aga meie yllatus, kui me rongist v2ljusime ja avastasime, et 6ues oli veel kylmem! Kylmast l6disedes k6ndisime me l2bi hommikuse Sydney meie hotelli poole. See k6lab jube ekstreemselt, tegelikult oli v2ljas siiski 17 kraadi sooja, aga p2rast nelja kuud pea lakkamatus 30-kraadises kuumuses olemist tundus see uskumatult kylmana. Kehad harjuvad v2liste tingimustega ikka p2ris kiiresti. Ma m2letan selgelt, kuidas yhel eriti kylmal Eesti talvel tundus -8 kraadi soojana, ja kuidas Edinburghis oli 12 kraadi piisavalt soe et k6ik higistasid. Naljakas, kuidas samad temperatuurid v6ivad nii erinevatena tunduda, olenevalt sellest, millega sa harjunud oled!

Tegelikult saabusimegi me Sydneysse 'kylma'-laine ajal, ja ilm oli enamus meie kahest kesklinnas veedetud p2evast hall ja masendav. Nii kaugel l6unas kui me praegu oleme, on aastaaegasid tunda ja sygis on kahtlemata alanud. Siiski oli saabumisep2eval ilm hommikul hea ja saime enne vihma saabumist natukene p2ikest tunda. Viskasime oma kotid hommikul vara hotelli (ja k2isime sooja dushi all, et ennast yles soojendada hahaa), ja l2ksime kohe tasuta kolmetunnisele Sydney jalutustuurile, et linnaga veidi tutvust teha ja peamisi kesklinna alasid n2ha.

Ametlikult (st et loomulikult elasid aborigeernid siinsel alal juba kymneid tuhandeid aastaid enne eurooplaste saabumist, ent paraku pole t2nap2eval kelleltki nende ajaloo kohta kysida) sai Sydney alguse 1788. aastal karistuskolooniana kui siia esimesed laevat2ied syydim6istetuid toodi. Nende esimeseks asulaks sai ala mida t2nap2eval nimetatakse The Rocks'iks ('Kivid') ning mis asub kohe sadama l2hedal (mis t2nap2eval on kaunis ala jalutusk2iguks ning esimene koht Austraalias, kus tundsime ajaloo h6ngu - seal on isegi munakividest teejuppe!). Karistuskoloonia perioodi algus oli ysna konarlik, eriti kahel suurel p6hjusel - esiteks ei olnud siia saadetud vangidel mitte mingisuguseid teadmisi p6llundusest ning esimestel aastatel olid nad t2ielikult s6ltuvad Euroopast saadetud toidust. See toit pidi aga yle elama mitu kuud kestva laevareisi, seega olid haigused ja n2lg levinud. Probleem lahendati m6ne aja m66dudes, kui siia hakati saatma vabatahtlike uusasukatena p6llumehi, kes siis kohapeal vilja kasvatama hakkasid ja niimoodi uut kolooniat toitsid. Teine probleem seisnes v2hestes naistes. Nimelt olid pea k6ik siia saadetud vangid meessoost, kes m6ne aja m88dudes ent yksikuna tundma hakkasid. See eksimus parandati kampaaniaga, kus noortele ja vallalistele briti naistele pakuti suurep2rast v6imalust Austraaliasse uusasukaks minna. Ilmselgelt see toimis, kuna t2nap2eval on Austraalia austraallasi t2is.

Sydney roll karistuskolooniana l6ppes 19. sajandi keskpaigaks ning sellest ajast saati on ta kasvanud nii suuruses kui t2htsuses. Linn kasvas eriti j6udsasti 19. sajandi teises pooles kui siinkandis avastati kulda. Kullapalavik t6i siia hulganisti uusasukaid, sh Hiinast, Yhendriikidest ja Euroopast, pannes aluse Sydneyle kui eri kultuuride kohtumispaigale. T2nap2eval on tegu yhe maailma k6ige multikultuursema linnaga  - 4,5st miljonist elanikust on yle kolmandiku syndinud mujal kui Austraalias. Tegu on ka v2ga noorusliku linnaga - elanikkonna keskmine vanus on vaid 36. Kahjuks aga on elanike hulgas vaid 1% p6liselanikke, aborigeene (kogu Austraalia elanikkonnast moodustavad nad samuti vaid 3%) - seega tuleb meeles pidada, et suured edulood on saanud v6imalikuks kellegi teise kulul.

Jalutustuuri giid andis meile Sydney ajaloost ylevaate ja taris meid m66da kesklinna peamiseid vaatamisv22rsusi. Eurooplastena oli meie jaoks ysna igav vaadata alla 200-aastaseid ehitisi, mida meile uhkusega esitati kui riigi vanimaid, tunduvalt huvitavam oli aga n2ha moodsat v6i l2hiajaloo Sydneyd. Meie tuur l6ppes sadamas, kus saime heita esimese pilgu kuulsale Sydney Ooperiteatrile (kaunis, aga milline fiasko et saada see ehitatud!) ning kaunile Sadamasillale. Nagu giid viimased s6nad 8eldud sai, hakkas vihma sadama ning suundusime kuhugi katuse alla l6unat s88ma.

Kuna terve 6htu ja j2rgmine hommik sadas vihma, puhkasime ja lugesime niisama hotellis. Teise p2eva p2rastl6unal l2ksime me v2ikesele jalutusk2igule, kylastasime Kaasaegse Kunsti Muuseumit ning siis l2ksime Darlingi Sadama kaidele jalutama ja veini jooma, enne kui vihm meid j2lle tagasi hotelli sundis minema.

J2rgmisel hommikul l2ksime me Hiinalinna jalutama ning l6unat s88ma (leidsime uskumatult maitsva toiduga nuudlikoha!). Tegu on yhe Sydney vanima linnaosaga, kuna siinne hiinlaste kogukond on hiiglaslik - siin on elanud juba mitmeid generatsioone hiinlasi ning uusi asukaid tuleb Hiinast siia ka t2nap2eval.

P2rast l6unat hyppasime me yhistranspordi peale, et minna oma Austraalia viimase HelpX v66rustaja juurde - Jenny, h2sti tore ja lahke hiina naine, p2rit Shanghaist ent Austraalias juba k6vasti yle 20 aasta elanud. Tema kodu on Wahroongas, vaikses Sydney naabruskonnas, kesklinnast umbes 15 kilomeetrit loode suunas. Me otsustasime viimase projekti teha linnas, et meil oleks v6imalus Sydneyt avastada, aga samuti lihtsalt vahelduseks, p2rast kolme viimast projekti rohkem v6i v2hem metsikutes maapiirkondades. Jenny oli siinse koha endale kolm aastat tagasi muretsenud ning on kogu selle aja seda vaikselt remontinud. Temaga koos elab siin praegu Joe, noor iirlasest seljakotir2ndur, kes on Jenny juures juba neli kuud elanud ja t88tanud, aidates teda remondit88dega. Joe on see, kes HelpX abistajatega peamiselt tegeleb ning meile ylesandeid annab. Peale meie on siin ka kaks noort hiinlasest abistajat, Lexi ja Eric, seega saame me siin k6ik koos p2ris paljude t88dega yhele poole.

Jenny kodu t6elised staarid on aga tema neli koera. Ma jumaldan koeri juba niisamagi, aga need neli siin on t6esti yhed k6ige lahedamad koerad keda ma kunagi n2inud olen! Siin on kaks vanemat poissi, Apple ja Bronte, m6lemad umbes 2-aastased, ja nendele muretseti seltsiks kaks tydrukut, Mei Mei ja Chocolate, m6lemad umbes 7-kuused. Neljakesi koos on nad yks paras energiat ja r66mu t2is seltskond ja k6igil neljal on t2iesti erinev iseloom, mis tuli juba esimeste tundide jooksul kohe v2lja. Apple on vanim ja pealtn2ha k6ige targem, ja yhtlasi Jenny esimene koer. Ta on pallim2ngu ekspert ja saab k2sklustest imeh2sti aru. K6ik koerad jumaldavad pallim2ngu, ent Apple on alati see, kes palli tagasi toob (ja tundub, et ainuke kes saab aru, et m2ngimiseks tuleb pall tagasi tuua, ja ka pallist lahti lasta). Apple on ka k6ige armukadedam ja ei talu seda, kui teisi koeri patsutad, eriti Brontet, kuna ta on tema rivaal. Bronte (kes on nime saanud Sydney Bronte ranna j2rgi, kus Jenny'l oli yle 20 aasta kohvik) on austraalia kelpie-t6ugu, ja k6ige suuremana on ta ka alfaisane. Ta tunneb vajadust oma yleolekut Apple'ile vahetevahel t6estada (kuigi Apple tundub teda mitte eriti t6sisena v6tvat), aga tegelikult on n2ha, et ta on endas veidi ebakindel. Ta ei n2ita silitamise vastu erilist huvi siis kui teised koerad l2heduses on (peab ju ennast tugevana n2itama), aga nii kui sa temaga yksi j22d, sulab ta yles ja tuleb sulle praktiliselt sylle ja nurub paid :) Mei Mei (mis hiina keeles t2hendab 'v2ike 6de') on grupi kiire ja kaval liige. Ka tema on kelpie-t6ugu, ent n2eb v2lja rohkem nagu Vana-Egiptuse jumal Anubise jaakalikehastus ja mul on tunne, et tegelikult on tema k6igist k6ige targem, kuigi ta ei uhkusta sellega. Ta on kiire nagu v2lk ja kui ta sulle sylle kipub siis ei pysi ta hetkekski paigal, proovides aina su n2gu lakkuda ja musi anda. Pallim2ngus hoiab ta alati veidi eemale ja j2lgib pingsalt m2ngu ning kui v6imalus tuleb, naksab palli Apple'i ja Bronte nina eest 2ra, hoiab seda m6nda aega endaga, kiusates poisse, ent l6puks annab ta selle alati Apple'ile tagasi. Ja l6puks siis Chocolate. Chocolate on pruun labrador, ja ta on grupi aeglane ja armas liige. Ta on veidi laisav6itu, s8rkides pallim2ngu ajal paar sammu palli poole, ent siis lamab koheselt j2lle maha. Kui teised koerad on terve hunniku k2sklusi selgeks 6ppinud, saab Chocolate aru ainult sellest kui talle 'istu!' 8elda (ilmselt sedagi ainult sellep2rast, et talle meeldib istuda :). Ta on ka ysna kohmetu, ja ta kukub ja komistab pidevalt v6i l88b oma pead k6iksuguste asjade pihta. Ta pole ilmselt veel aru saanud, et ta pole enam v2ike kutsikas ning on nyydseks juba p2ris suureks kasvanud ja ei mahu enam kitsastest kohtadest l2bi (ta on ka niimoodi paar korda kinni kiilunud, vaeseke!). Chocolate on tohutult naljakas ja nii kohutavalt armas, et temast on t2iesti v6imatu m88da k6ndida ilma talle pai tegemata. K6ik neli koera on nii 2gedad, ma v6iks nad k6ik siit koju kaasa viia kui saaks!

Peale koerte seltskonna nautimise (90% meie ajast siin) oleme me ka siin t88d teinud. T88tame hommikul kella 8st kuni keskp2evani ning siin oleme me teinud varasemaga v6rreldes meeldivalt teistsugust t88d. Kuna tegu on v2ikese magalakrundiga, on siin ainult pisike aed ja enamus t88d on remondiga seotud. Seega oleme me teinud k6vasti liivatamist ja v2rvimist. Seni v2ga meeldiv t88.

Kuna me l6petame juba keskp2eval, on meil pikad vabad p2rastl6unad ning seni oleme me kylastanud siin yht l2hedalasuvat parki ning paari kesklinnale l2hedalasuvat randa - sh maailmakuulsat Bondi randa, kust me jalutasime m88da ylikaunist huvitavate liivakivimoodustistega rannikut kuni Bronte rannani. Siinkohal peaks mainima, et ilm on algusega v6rreldes paremaks l2inud. Nyyd on siin p2ikest saanud ja 25-kraadist sooja, mis on meile randaminekut lubanud. 6htud on aga j2tkuvalt jahedad, seega tundub nagu eesti suvi.

N2dalavahetused on meil vabad ja eile v6tsime me Jenny pakutud jalgrattad ja s6itsime pika tee Manly randa. Manly (inglise keeles 'mehelik') on naljakas nimi ja t2hendab t2pselt seda mida nimi ytleb. Nime sai ta siis kui 1788. aastal toonane kapten Arthur Phillips (kes hiljem sai New South Walesi regiooni esimeseks kuberneriks) rannikut esmakordselt kylastas ning leidis kohalikud aborigeenid olevat v2ga 'enesekindlad ja mehelikud', misj2rel nimetas ta koha Manly laheks. T2nap2eval on tegu populaarse rannakylaga, kesklinnast vaid 10 kilomeetrit kirde suunas. Me s6itsime ratastega sinna ja tagasi maha yle 60 kilomeetri, mis oli ysna ekstreemne, arvestades, et ma pole augustist saati ratta seljas olnud. 6nneks on viimaste kuude fyysiline t88 meid siiski vormis hoidnud, ja s6it polnud liiga kurnav (kuigi p2eva l6puks olin ma p2ris v2sinud!) ja taas ratta seljas olla oli ylimalt meeldiv.

Me j22me Jenny juurde ka j2rgmisel n2dalal ning n2dalal6puks plaanime me minna paariks p2evaks l2hedalasuvatesse Sinim2gedesse, et veel yks viimane doos austraalia loodust saada enne kui meie siinne aeg l6pule saab ja me tagasi Aasiasse s6idame.

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After two very hot and very sunny days in Brisbane, we took an overnight train down to Sydney. It was freezing cold inside the train, from extreme air conditioning (which is sadly ubiquitous in all the hot countries where we have been to, at least where it can be afforded), so we were looking forward to getting off the train and feeling the Australian heat again. Imagine our surprise, when we stepped off and it was colder than on the train! We walked through an early morning Sydney towards our hostel, freezing our arses off. I know I make it sound extreme, when in reality it was still 17 degrees, but it's surprising how cold that feels after spending four months in nearly constant 30-degree heat. Our bodies adapt surprisingly quickly. I clearly remember thinking that -8 degrees felt warm during one icy cold winter in Estonia, and how in Edinburgh 12 degrees was hot enough to make everyone break a sweat. So it's funny how different temperatures can feel, depending on what you're used to!

In truth, we arrived during a particular 'cold' spell, and the weather was dreary and miserable for most of the two days we spent in Sydney city centre. As far South as here, you do have seasons, and it's clear that autumn has indeed arrived. Still, we were lucky with the weather in the morning of the day we arrived, and we got a bit of sunshine before the rain arrived. After dropping off our bags (and having a hot shower to warm up lol) in the hotel in the early morning, we went straight for a free, three-hour morning walking tour of Sydney, to get our bearings and learn a bit more about the city. 

Officially (as in, of course Aboriginals had lived here for tens of thousands of years before, but little is known of what it was like then since there is no one to ask that today), Sydney was founded in 1788 as a penal colony and that's when the first shipfuls of convicts arrived. Their first settlement was what is now known as The Rocks, an area just next to the harbour (and a lovely place for a walk, the first area in Australia that we have seen that actually feels a bit historic and old - it even has cobbled streets!). This first period was plagued by two major problems - firstly, the convicts who were sent here had no knowledge of farming, so the first years they were completely dependent on food being shipped in from Europe. Since this food was stuff that had to survive a months-long sea voyage, disease and hunger were widespread. After a while, this problem was rectified by sending new settlers (not convicts but those who came voluntarily) who were actual farmers to work the land and provide for the newly established colony. The second problem was the lack of women. Nearly all of the convicts sent here were men, and after a while they became a bit lonely. This oversight was amended by a PR push to get young, unmarried female settlers to come live in Australia. Obviously it worked, since there are lots of Australians here today.

Sydney's role as a penal colony ended in the mid-19th century, and since then it has grown in size and importance as a major settlement and port. A huge growth spurt happened also in the mid-1800s, as that was when gold was discovered nearby. The gold rush brought tons of settlers over from China, United States and Europe, securing Sydney's future as a cultural melting pot. Today it's one of the most multicultural places on Earth - of its 4.5 million inhabitants, over a third have been born overseas. It is also a very young city, with a median age of only 36. Unfortunately though, the native Aboriginal population stands at only 1% (compared to 3% of the whole population of Australia) - so we shouldn't forget that the big stories of success have come at the expense of someone.

The guide of the free walking tour gave us an overview of Sydney's history and took as for a long walk in the city centre. As Europeans, it's a bit underwhelming to be presented 200-year old buildings and monuments as the oldest in the city or the country, so it was actually more interesting to see things from the modern Sydney, or things from a more recent past. We ended our tour near the harbour, where we got our first glimpse of the Sydney Opera House (beautiful, but what a fiasco to get it built!), and the gorgeous Harbour Bridge. Just as the guide was saying her final words, the rain started and we were off for lunch somewhere indoors.

Since it rained for the rest of the evening and the following morning, we stayed in the hotel, reading and resting. The second day we went for a little walk and visited the Museum of Contemporary Art in the afternoon, before heading toward Darling Harbour for a walk along the wharves and an aperitif before heading back to the hotel to cook us some dinner.

The next morning we went for a stroll and a super delicious noodle lunch in Chinatown. It's another Sydney's oldest neighbourhoods, since the Chinese community here is huge, with many generations having lived here already well over a hundred years, and new people arriving from China still today.

After this, we took the city transport to head to go meet our final HelpX host in Australia - Jenny, a lovely and generous Chinese lady, originally from Shanghai, but who has lived here for well over 20 years already. Her place is in Wahroonga, a quiet Sydney suburb, some 15 kilometers north-west of the city centre. We had decided to stay in a more urban setting for our last project, to have the liberty of exploring Sydney, but also to try something different after three projects in the countryside, with varying degrees of wilderness. Jenny has a property that she acquired three years ago, and has been renovating it ever since. With her lives Joe, a young Irish backpacker, who has been living and working at Jenny's for the past months, helping her with the renovations. It is him that manages the HelpXers who come and help with the various jobs that need doing. Apart from us, two young Chinese HelpXers were already here too, Lexi and Erik, so we are getting lots of work done with this many people.

The main stars of this place, however, are Jenny's four dogs. I already absolutely love dogs in general, but these four are some of the most wonderful dogs I have ever seen! There are the two older boys, Apple and Bronte, who are both around 2 years old, and then there are the two young girls, Mei Mei and Chocolate, both around 7 months old. They are a formidable gang of energy and joy, and each has such a particular and distinctive personality that came out within the first hours we were here. Apple is the oldest and the first, and seemingly the smartest. He is an ace in fetch, and can understand your commands perfectly. All the dogs are crazy about playing fetch, but it is always Apple who brings the ball back (and the only one who gets the concept that you actually need to bring the ball back, and also that you need to let go of the ball). Apple is also the most jealous, and can't tolerate if you pet the others, especially Bronte, the other boy. Bronte (named after Bronte beach, where Jenny had a cafe for 20 years) is an Australian Kelpie, and as the biggest of the bunch, he is the Alpha. He does feel the need to assert his dominance over Apple sometimes (who seems to be in denial about who is boss), but you can tell that he is actually a bit insecure. He doesn't really show interest in having pats when others are around (he needs to show that he is tough after all), but when he is alone, he is a total sweetheart and comes to you for cuddles :) Mei Mei (meaning 'little sister' in Mandarin) is the quick, sly one of the group. Also a Kelpie, she actually looks more like the jackal incarnation of the Egyptian god Anubis and might just be the smartest of them all, although she does not show it off. She is fast as lightning and when she comes to you for some love, she jumps on your lap and fidgets about so much, trying to lick your face and give you kisses. In fetch, she stays back and watches the game, and when opportunity presents itself, she snatches the ball from under the noses of Apple and Bronte and marches away with it, keeping it for a while before handing it back to them. And finally, there's Chocolate. Chocolate is a Chocolate Labrador, and she is the slow and sweet one of the group. She is a bit lazy, and might strut a few steps toward the ball when we start playing fetch, but will then lose interest and lie down. While others have learned tons of commands, she only understands 'sit' (probably because she likes sitting down :) She is also a bit clumsy, having taken a few tumbles and hit her head on the table, against the other dogs etc. She has probably not yet realised that she is no longer a little puppy and that she has gotten quite big, and will no longer fit through small spaces (she has also gotten stuck sometimes, poor thing). Chocolate just cracks me up so much, and she is so sweet, it is impossible to walk past her and not pat her. All these dogs are so wonderful, I could just steal them all and take them with me!

So apart from enjoying the company of the dogs (90% of what we do here lol), we have also actually worked. We work from 8am until noon, and it has all been refreshingly different kind of work to what we had been doing in the other projects. Since it's a small suburban property, there is only a small garden, and most of the work is renovating the back of the house. So there has been a lot of sanding and painting to do, primarily. It has been very pleasant work so far. 

Since we finish at noon, we have had lots of free time in the afternoons, and we have so far visited a nearby park and gone to some beaches near the city centre - the world famous Bondi beach, from where we walked along a gorgeous coastal route with amazing sandstone formations to the nearby Bronte beach. I should mention here that weather had improved from the first days, permitting us to go to the beach, with sunshine and temperatures of 25 degrees. Nights are still pretty chilly though, so it feels a bit like an Estonian summer. 

Weekends we have off, and yesterday we took advantage of Jenny's offer to use her bikes to go for a long cycle to Manly beach. Manly is a funny name, and means just what the name says. In 1788, the then Captain Arthur Phillips (who became the first Governor of New South Wales) first visited the area, and thought that the local Aboriginals were so 'confident and manly' that he named the place Manly Cove. Today it's a popular beach and seaside resort, north-east from the city centre. We cycled over 60km altogether to get there and to come back, which was pretty extreme considering that I had not done any cycling since August. But luckily all the physical work of the past months has still kept us fit, so it was not too exhausting (although I was pretty tired by the end still!), and it felt really good to get back on the bike.

We will stay at Jenny's next week as well, and we are planning to go for a trip to the nearby Blue Mountains for the next weekend, to get one last dose of the beautiful Australian nature before our time here comes to an end and we journey back to the tropics in Asia.

Vaatamisv22rsused Sydneys // Sights in Sydney

Austraalia kunagine k6rgeim ehitis k6rvuti praeguse k6rgeimaga // The once tallest building in Australia next to the tallest tower today

Kaunis loodusele pyhendatud pysinstallatsioon - Sydney yhel tagat2naval rippuvad tyhjad linnupuurid, maa peale graveeritud Sydneys kunagi pesitsenud linnuliikude nimed, ning selle k6rvale kostab peidetud k6laritest nende liikide linnulaulud -  nii ilus! // Beautiful permanent installation on a Sydney back street dedicated to nature - suspended empty birdcages, with engraved names of bird species on the ground that used to inhabit the Sydney area, and their songs played from hidden speakers - wonderful!

Skulptuur 'Ootamas' - v2ga elutruu, ning ajaleht mida mees loeb on koopia p2ris 1988. ilmunud ajalehenumbrist // Sculpture 'Waiting' - very lifelike, and even the newspaper there is a copy of a real issue published in 1988

Kaunis seinamaaling The Rocks'is mis kujutab Sydney kujunemist l2bi aastate // Beautiful mural in The Rocks, depicting the evolution of Sydney as seen from the sea

Selline ta ongi // That's what it looks like

Sadamasild // The Harbour Bridge

Kaunis kunstitykk Kaasaegse Kunsti Muuseumis // Beautiful piece at the Museum of Contemporary Art

Traditsioonilised ideed k6rvuti uutega // Traditional ideas alongside new ones

Selline on ta l2hedamalt // That's what it looks like up close

Darlingi sadam ning vaade Sydney kesklinnale // Darling Harbour and views of the city centre

Lahe skulptuur Hiinalinnas, symboliseerimas hiina viite elementi ning yhtlasi hiinlaste ajalugu Austraalias, viidetes 19. sajandi kullapalavikule mis esimesed hiinlased siia t6i // Cool sculpture in Chinatown, which symbolises the five Chinese elements and also the history of the Chinese in Australia, hinting at the gold rush that brought the first immigrants 

T2navakunst Bondi rannas // Street art at Bondi beach

Tervitused Bondi rannast // Greetings from Bondi beach

Ikka Bondi... // Still Bondi...

Lahedad liivakivimoodustised Bondi ja Bronte randade vahel // Cool sandstone formations between Bondi and Bronte beaches

Bronte rand kauguses n2ha // Bronte beach in the background

Austraalias on kakaduud igal pool, ja nad on nagu varesed - ilusad, targad, teevad pahandust ja kraaksuvad koledasti. See siin yritas auto katuselt midagi k2tte nokkida // There are cockatoos everywhere in Australia, and they're like crows - beautiful, smart, michievous and they croak horribly. This one was trying to pry something out of a car roof

Apple

Bronte

Mei Mei

Chocolate :)