Seega pole mingi ime et see oli osa reisist mida ma olin pikisilmi oodanud, ning mist6ttu me planeerisime seal veeta tervelt viis 88d (pikim aeg mis me seni kuskil veetnud oleme). Ma ei jaksanud 2ra oodata, et saaks snorgeldada ja k6iki kolme saart avastada.
Paraku olid elul veidi teistsugused plaanid ning meie puhkus kujunes ettekujutatust hoopis erinevaks. Enamus ajast Gilidel veetsin ma k6rges palavikus ja hullu nohuga, suutmata eriti midagi teha. Mul 6nnestus ennast viimasel p2eval Senggigis kuidagi kylmetada, ilmselt kuna eelneval 88l oli ventilaator veidi liiga tugevalt sisse j22nud. J2rgneva p2eva kurnav rattaretk ei aidanud ka kindlasti kaasa, ning kui j6udis k2tte aeg Gilidele s6iduks, oli mul p6letavalt k6rge palavik ning v6imas p6skkoopap6letik.
Paranemine v6ttis aega neli p2eva, seega veetsime me enamus oma p2evadest jalutades (aeglaselt) Gili Airi saarel (kus me 88bisime) ning rannas lugedes. Yhtlasi syyes palju kanasuppi ning juues liitrite viisi ingveriteed, neelates paratsetamooli ning minnes varakult magama. Paolo, hea ja hooliv peika nagu ta on, veetis kogu oma aja minuga, saamata teha mitte midagi huvitavat ning pidades koguaeg minu halamist kuulama. Ta on parim!
Lohutust leidsime oma olukorras sellest, et ka ilm polnud eriti hea. Nagu mujalgi Indoneesias, oli ka Gilidel vihmahooaeg varakult pihta hakanud ning me kogesime oma sealsetel esimestel p2evadel eriti halba ilma - t6siseid 2ikesetorme tugeva paduvihmaga. Seega polnud haige olemine k6ige hullem, kuina me oleks nii v6i naa pidanud p2ris palju aega toas istuma.
Viimaseks p2evaks Gilidel oli mul l6puks enesetunne hea ning p2ev kujunes v2ga meeldivaks. Me otsustasime s6ita Gili Trawanganile, v6i Gili T-le nagu seda hellitavalt kutsutakse. P2rast nelja p2eva Gili Airil olime me saare otsast otsani l2bi k6ndinud ning vajasime vaheldust. Meil vedas sel p2eval ka ilmaga ning saime kyllaga p2ikest ning ei tilkagi vihma - t2iuslikud tingimused meie aktiivsemaks p2evaks. Nagu me paadilt maha olime roninud, l2ksime me otsima kust saaksime rentida jalgratast - v6i 6igemini tandemit (kaheinimese jalgratast). Paolo oli juba pikemat aega tahtnud kahekesti tandemjalgrattaga s6itmist proovida, ent ma olin varem v2hem entusiastlik olnud. Gilid olid aga sellise asja proovimiseks ideaalne koht, ning me saabusime missiooniga saart tandemil avastada. Me leidsime ilma suurema vaevata koha, mis neid rentis, ning kuigi ratas n2gi p2ris roostes ja nukker v2lja, olid ka k6ik teised seni saartel n2htud rattad samasugused, ning me rentisimegi ilma pikema jututa tandemi.
Tandemiga s6itmine ei olnud tegelikult tavalise jalgrattaga s6itmisest sugugi erinev, v2lja arvatud, et mul oli vaade Paolo seljale ning mul ei olnud tarvis otsustada kuhu poole p88rata. Kahjuks j2i meie s6it lyhikeseks kuna p2rast viit minutit proovis Paolo k2iku vahetada (!) ning kogu tandem lagunes koost 2ra. P2rast kogu tee tagasi jalutamist v6tsime me kaks (samuti roostes) tavalist jalgratast, ent mitte enne kui Paolo oli omanikuga paar s6na vahetanud - viimane kurtis, et tal on nyyd vaja varuosade jaoks raha kulutada, mille peale Paolo kostis et jalgrataste korrashoid on ta t88 osa.
Nyyd juba eraldi, v2ntasime me m88da rannikut edasi kuni peatusime yhes rannas et viimaks snorgeldada - midagi, mida ma olin nii v2ga tahtnud teha, ent polnud seni haiguse t6ttu saanud. Mul on ylimalt hea meel, et viimasel p2eval saime siiski snorgeldada, kuna see oli lihtsalt fantastiline! Me n2gime hulgi eriv2rvilisi ja kirjuid kalu ning lahedaid korallmoodustisi, ent k6ige parem hetk oli siis kui Paolo m2rkas hiigelsuurt merikilpkonna, kes m88da p6hja rahulikult vetikaid pugis, ymbritsetuna v2ikestest kaladest. Kumbki meist polnud varem merikilpkonna n2inud, ja seega oli eriti lahe kogemust n2ha teda nii l2hedalt ja oma looduslikus keskkonnas. Ma loodan v2ga, et meil 6nnestub oma reisi jooksul veel palju snorgeldada, sest veealusesse maailmasse vaadata on nii maagiline. Mulle meeldib hirmsasti ka korallriffi 22re kohal hulpida ja kuristikku vaadata ning ette kujutada kes seal kaugel elab.
P2rast rannapeatust saime me saarel veel natukene ringi s6ita enne kui pidime j2lle sadamasse suunduma et paadiga tagasi Gili Airile s6ita. Tagasis6idul tutvusime me yhe kena paariga, saksa tydruku ja hispaania poisiga, kes 88bisid meiega samas hotellis Gili Airil. Me veetsime terve 6htu nendega koos ning k2isime koos rannas s88mas. Oli v2ga meeldiv teiste r2ndajatega juttu puhuda ning muljeid jagada ning see tegi meie viimase 6htu Gilidel veelgi meeldivamaks.
Kahjuks l6ppes suurep2rane p2ev veidi muserdavalt - ilmnes, et Paolo hakkas haigeks j22ma, ning selle aja peale kui me magama l2ksime, oli tal korralik palavik! Ta oli kogu selle aja vastu pidanud mil mina haige olin, ja nii kui minu enesetunne paranes, tuli tema kord. Ja minu kord omakorda teda p6etada. V2hemalt oli meil piisavalt 6nne, et me m6lemad koos haiged ei olnud :D
Me oleme nyyd tagasi Senggigis yheks 88ks, p2rast mida l2hme me Balile, kust me lendame Jaava saarele Yogyakartasse, et veeta kymme p2eva mu s6branna Johanna juures. Seal veedame me ka j6ulud ja aastavahetuse - kummaline m6te siinses kuumas kliimas :)
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From Senggigi, we made our way to northeast Lombok to spend the following five nights on the Gili islands, the minuscule little islets just off the coast of Lombok. There are three Gilis (gili actually means 'small island' in Bahasa Indonesian) - Gili Trawangan (the largest and most developed, popular with young people who want to party, it is also the furthest away from the coast), Gili Meno (the smallest and least developed, known for being the quietest and wildest of the three), and Gili Air (closest to the mainland, the only Gili where locals actually live, it is quieter than Trawangan but still with enough to do). The Gilis have a reputation as paradise islands and an excellent holiday destination. The islands are all very small, less than 2km wide, with just few roads (more like paths actually) and no motorised traffic, which is forbidden on the islands. The only modes of transportation are bicycles, horse carts and your own legs. The islands all have kilometres of beautiful sandy beaches, and all are surrounded by beautiful coral reefs, allowing for excellent snorkelling and diving. There are a number of very laid-back and nice restaurants and cafes with bamboo furniture and deck chairs, and most hotels are in fact cool bungalows.
So it's no wonder that this was a part of our trip that I had really been looking forward to, and we planned to stay for as long as five nights (the longest we have stayed in any one place yet). I couldn't wait to do lots of snorkelling and to explore all three islands during our time there.
Unfortunately, life's a bit of a bitch and decided to kick our plans in the nuts. In the end I spent most of our time on the Gilis with a high fever and a nasty cold, unable to do much at all. I had somehow managed to get a cold on our last day in Senggigi, probably by having had the fan on too high the night before. The exertion of the mountainbiking the next day didn't do much to help the situation, so by the time we were on our way to the Gilis, I had a scorching hot fever and a hardcore sinus infection.
It took me four days to get any better, so most of our time was spent walking (slowly :D) around Gili Air (which is where we stayed) and reading on the beach. Plus eating lots of spicy chicken soup and drinking litres of ginger tea, popping Paracetamols, and going to bed early. Paolo, being a very kind and caring boyfriend, spent all his time with me, not being able to do anything exciting and having to listen to me complaining about how shitty I felt. He is the best!
We found consolation in our situation from the fact that the weather wasn't that great either. Like elsewhere in Indonesia, the rainy season had just started on the Gilis as well, and we experienced a particularly bad few days when we got there - serious thunderstorms with extremely heavy rain. So it wasn't all that bad being ill, since we would have had to stay indoors quite a bit anyway.
I finally felt good again in time for our last day on the islands, and it turned out to be a really good one. We decided to take the island hopper boat to see Gili Trawangan (since we had been stuck on Gili Air for four days in a row and had seen all of it by now), or Gili T as it's affectionately called. The weather that day was beautiful as well, with sunshine and no rain at all, so we had perfect conditions for our first more active day. As soon as we got off the boat, we went to look for a place to rent a bike, or to be precise, a tandem bike. Paolo had been wanting to try a tandem together for a while, but I hadn't been too keen to try it since I wasn't sure how safe I would feel. However, the Gilis were a perfect place to try something like that, since there is no motor traffic, so we arrived with a mission to explore the island on a tandem. We found a place with tandems quite quickly, and while the bike looked rusty and badly kept, so did all the other bikes we have seen on the islands, and we took the tandem anyway.
Riding a tandem was actually not different at all from riding a normal bike, except I got to look at Paolo's back while I rode and I had to make no decisions on where to turn lol. Unfortunately our voyage was cut short five minutes later when Paolo made the mistake of trying to change the gear (shocking!) and the whole tandem fell apart! Having walked all the way back to the bike rental place, we took two single bikes (also rusty), but not before Paolo had a small argument with the owner who was complaining that he now had to spend money for a spare part on the tandem, while Paolo countered that fixing the bikes was part of his job.
No longer tandem-ed together, we cycled along the coast and stopped at a beach to finally do some snorkelling, which I had so been looking forward to but not had had a chance to do yet. I am so glad we managed it on the last day because it was wonderful! We saw tons of colourful fish and cool coral formations, but the absolute highlight was when Paolo spotted a HUGE sea turtle, grazing gently among the seaweed, with a host of fishes attending her. Neither of us had seen a sea turtle before, and it was just amazing to see one so close and in its natural environment. I really hope we get to do lots more snorkelling on our trip to come, because it is just so magical to peer into the underwater world and to spy on all the life there. I also love looking down to where the coral reef falls into the abyss and to imagine what lives beyond there.
After the beach stop, we cycled some more and then had to already take the boat back to Gili Air. On the boat trip back, we made friends with another couple, a German girl and a Spanish guy, who were staying in the same hotel as us on Gili Air. We ended up spending the whole evening together, and went out for drinks and dinner on the beach. It was great to get to chat to other travellers and share impressions, and it made our final evening on the Gilis that much more enjoyable.
Unfortunately, the excellent day ended on a bit of a downer - it was becoming increasingly clear that Paolo was falling ill, and by the time we went to bed, he was hot with a fever! He had held out for so many days while I was sick, but as soon as I felt better, it was his turn. And mine to tend to him. We are lucky at least to not be ill at the same time :D
We are now back in Senggigi for one night before heading to Bali, from where we will catch a flight to Yogyakarta on Java island to spend ten days with my good friend Johanna. There we will also spend Christmas and New Year - which is a strange thought in this hot climate :)
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| Teel Gili Airile // On the way to Gili Air |
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| Suvalises poes myydi raamatuid, ja leidus ka riiul v2idetavalt eestikeelsete raamatutega (kuigi ungari, vene, poola jm keelsete raamatute k6rval oli ainus tegelikult eestikeelne teos hiigelsuur Hrustshevi biograafia) // A random store sold books and we found a supposedly Estonian shelf (although among the Hungarian, Russian, Polish and other books the only one actually in Estonian was a huge biography of Nikita Khrushchev) |
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| Gili hobuj6ud // Gili horsepower |
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| Niisama lehm rannas // Just a cow on a beach |
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| Vot nii k6vasti sadas - juhin t2helepanu faktile et kymne minutiga ujus terve t2nav // This is how much it rained - note the street under water, just after ten minutes of rain |
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| Kaunis tykk surnud koralli // Beautiful dead coral |
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| Puut88koda kus tehti vanadest paatidest lahedaid riiuleid // Wood workshop where they cleverly reused old boats |
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| Grillitud kala banaanilehtede sees, v2ga maitsev oli // Fish grilled in banana leaves, yum |
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| Kurikuulus tandem vahetult p2rast koost lagunemist // The notorious tandem just after collapsing |
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| Gili Trawangan, taamal paistab Lombok // Gili Trawangan, with Lombok seen in the background |
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| Kohalikud poisid // Local boys |
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